Sunday, December 12, 2010

Kia Ora Piopiotahi... Milford Sound New Zealand

Milford Sound is more amazing than I ever expected.  I have to give credit to the Captain that I support for recommending this place back in July!  The Journey from Queenstown to Milford Sound was very special and spectacular!  The pictures do not begin to show how amazing, breath taking and beautiful this place is... 

It rains 180 days a year in Milford Sound New Zealand, and if it's not raining, it's snowing.  I was a lucky individual who able to enjoy 3 days of pure sunshine in Milford Sound with 2 days of rain towards the end of the trip.  Milford Sound has Mountain Peaks that are still covered in snow and Glaciers.  When the snow starts to melt they create these stunning waterfalls that can be found all over Milford Sound. 

I stayed at the Milford Sound Lodge in the Dorm rooms because that's all they had available besides camping.  No, I did not camp and when you see me you'll know why.  I'll have to do a show and tell of the nasty 'Sand Fly' bites on my body... ugh!  I could spend a whole day explaining why sand flies are so horrible, but I would rather spend it letting you know how wonderful Milford Sound is.  Back to the lodge... I met some really great people there who all have one thing in common 'The Great Outdoors'.  There are no TV's, Radios, Cell Phone Reception, etc, etc, etc in Milford Sound.  I spent the day before traveling to Milford Sound in a Grocery Store shopping for food to prepare for the upcoming 5 days since there is no grocery store in Milford Sound.  Milford Sound has 1) 1 Lodge, 1 Hotel; 2) 1 Cafe; and 3)Bus Terminal and Small Airport Terminal that charges $400-$$$$ for private flights back and forth to Queenstown.  There's one road coming in and out of Milford Sound and if there is an avalanche (via snow, tree or rocks), the roads can be shut down for up to 10 days!  After hiking in Milford Sound, I understand why... Trees that grow on the mountains have roots that intertwine and if one falls, they all fall. 

I met a lot of Germans in New Zealand.  I stayed in a dorm with 3 young German professionals traveling around NZ (Jana, Florio and Stephen) and 2 other girls who just finished college traveling from Germany (Jana and Teresa) and 2 girls from Australia (Claire/Carmen) in college.  I made a lot of friends in the Sound and it was funny exchanging stories in the 'lounge' that closed at 11pm.  The typical day is spent waking up at 6am getting ready for the day (hiking, kayaking, rafting or biking on that tiny road HW94/95!  You would never catch me biking that road unless it was before 9am or after 6pm when all of the buses have come through picking up or dropping off people.  I had to walk the highway to get to and from some of the trail heads and every time I heard something coming, I would literally walk down to the ditch and wait for it to pass.

I will give more details of my kayaking adventure Now...  So, I went Kayaking for 6 hours the day after I arrived in Milford Sound.  Kayaking starts at 7:15am and ends around 2/3pm.  Everyone filled out the paperwork stating if they have ever kayaking in the past and if so, type and # of times.  There's also a little section asking people to identify any injuries... thispart will be of particular interest to people reading this blog because I almost got killed kayaking with my partner... not really, I'm a strong swimmer and would have been ok if the kayak capsized.  Here's my only other complaint other than the sand flies...  Lessons learned for Kayaking in Milford Sound:
  1. If you are traveling alone and the other person traveling alone request that you become partners, you should ask a few questions like (have you ever Kayaked, do you know how to paddle, are you injured from let's say a 'sky diving incident that happened the day before)
  2. If your partner looks like he's over 65 and not fit, you may request to be placed with someone else
  3. If your partner almost gets you injured due to #1 and #2, you have the right to get really upset for ruining half of your Kayak experience in one of the most beautiful places in the World!
So, JeanMark and I were Kayaking together in a 2 person Kayak... I should have known that something was wrong when he said, "oh, you can sit in the back and steer the Kayak"... huh??? Don't most guys sit in the back because they are stronger and want to steer?  Ok, sure I can steer while you navigate (I suppose).  I noticed that after paddling to the middle of the Sound, which is part of the Ocean, that I was paddling while JeanMark was chilling out in the front taking photos most of the time and we were falling behind the group.  So I kindly say, hey, maybe we should hold off on the photos and keep paddling until we get to certain parts of the sound, when the tour guide tells us it's ok for photos.  Well, JeanMark says, "oh yeah Sam, I'm sorry, I went sky diving yesterday and got hurt jumping out of the airplane.  If I could have turned red, I'm sure I would have been red and fuming at this point.  After almost a month of either hiking, biking and running "Everyday"... oh and carrying around a 20kg backpack... I have lost a significant amount of weight and don't have the energy to paddle someone else around who almost weighs twice as much as me around on a 6 hour Kayak tour.  So, we... I mean I paddle over to the other side of the sound to the waterfalls and the tour guide says, ok, we have to stop taking pictures because the water is starting to get rough and choppy.  The tour guide was pretty much saying, oh crap, the water is the worst that I have seen it and we need to paddle non-stop out to the channel to be safe.  Think I'm joking... I took a few picture while at the waterfalls and look at the white caps on the waves.  I felt so much comfort in the fact of knowing that I had JeanMark as my Kayak partner :( :( :(...  I tell JeanMark, we really need to paddle to get to the channel to head back to the bank.  He say ok.  We start paddling out and half way through, Jean ark starts paddling and I tell him that he can't stop because the waves are too big.  I said, I just needed for him to make an effort and I would get us over.  Well, it only took 1 wave to actually go over our kayak and head for JeanMark to freeze up and stop paddling.  The last thing that you want happening when ocean kayaking is for your partner to freeze up and panic.  I continued to paddle and the boat really didn't move from the middle of the ocean.  I threw up the hand sign for the tour guy to come out to help me paddle into the channel.  He came out and towed us from the middle to a place in the channel where we were safe.  After all of this, JeanMark apologizes again and ask if 'we' can take a break... I'm so angry and it's a shame that I got angry on this trip at all that I paddle us back to the bank.  I hopped out of the Kayak and JeanMark tries to stand up and falls down, and the tour guides help him.  My only point is that if you get injured and try to do a sport that requires a certain level of energy, you should make the other person aware because you are now risking their safety.  Ok... I'm still not over it and I have to look at this guy's picture because we were in the Kayak together.  I may photo shop!  To let you know that I'm not exaggerating... 2 girls who were kayaking in the group behind of us capsized and had to be rescued the same time that were were pulling into the bank.  Also, 2 days later in Queenstown, 2 guys went out kayaking at night and died because the water was too rough and I'm assuming they drown or died of hypothermia.  Mother Nature is a Beast and should be respected!  People don't realize how dangerous the great outdoors really are.  All in all... it was a great Kayaking trip with exception to the end of the tour.

Hiking in Milford Sound is amazing and dangerous.  Amazing because everything is so green and there are so many streams, waterfalls, rivers that you have to cross to get to where you're going. I recall telling you guys about my many falls.  I fell at least 5 times while hiking and when I say that I fell... I fell backwards, forwards and even sideways into the river.   I would get up and shake it off and laugh at myself.  One girl at the lodge actually broke 3 ribs hiking.  It's the slippery moss growing on everything (rocks/tree roots).  The moss doesn't burn off until February.   Mud also became an apparent problem.  I had to cross 1-2 feet of mud during some points of my trekking.  My clothes and hiking boots smelled really bad, so I left them in Milford Sound along with my broken hiking sticks and relied on my running shoes for the rest of my trip.  Trekking in the sound is like doing a full day obstacle course, because you have to climb up rocks, climb over and under trees to get to where you're going.  I also only met one other couple the whole time hiking in Milford Sound alone.  It looked like the trails hadn't been walked for weeks.  I found some really cool bird eggs, rocks, etc while hiking.  I turned the eggs into the lodge for animal conservation and kept the rocks :)  Got them through customs.  And for those people who think that I should have left the eggs alone, you're wrong.  Eggs that fall out of nests will either die from becoming orphaned babies or will be eaten by weasels.  Milford Sound has a huge weasel problem that is killing off a lot of the birds by eating their nest eggs.  Milford has amazing birds and if I am hiking and can save at least one, I've done my good deed for the day!  Yay, to saving a life... doesn't matter if it's an animal or human life!

It's kind of funny, my whole trip, I found myself helping others and others helping me out.  Whether it being a ride to a trail head or advice on where to go, everyone traveling seemed to help each other out!  Just amazing... I did not run across too many selfish people on the trip!  I do plan to visit Germany one day soon since the people were so nice.

A few NZ facts: There are no native animals to New Zealand besides the Kiwi, everything else was imported.  There are no snakes in NZ, this made hiking feel a little safer.  That beautiful sweet smelling yellow flower is known as Scottish Broom and is a pest to the locals.

Now time for pictures:

Trip from Queenstown to Milford Sound:






























Natural Glaciers










 Headed into the tunnel...


 Leaving the one lane creepy tunnel... Your car better have lights because this tunnel doesn't.



 Pictures of a 'Tree Slide' that shut the road down for 10 days.
 And they all Fall Down!!!

Trip back to Queenstown from Milford Sound
 Wait for it....

 Becoming a bit clearer...

 Isn't God Amazing!!!!  That's a statement, not a question!

 Ok... God's Super Duper Amazing and Awesome!!!!












 I'm very thankful for this journey and experience

 I'm coming back one day!  I promise!


Mirror Lakes... Yeah... No Captions needed for these... The pictures kind of tell the story!









The Divide


The Chasm





 Rainbows!!!!
 The Chasm is pretty much a big hole in the ground full of beautiful blue water that creates the rainbows.





Flowers (Millions of them)! 






The Lodge... There is absolutely nothing around besides Mountains and the River!  I had plenty of time to think and reflect out here!  I found out more about myself here.

The daily routine here is... waking up early, eating breakfast together, getting your actives on for the day, coming back to shower, cook dinner and eat together, congregate in the lounge until 10pm and sleep and do it again the next day!  If you make too much noise after 11pm, you'll be asked to leave... doesn't matter if you came here on a bus or not.  Have fun with the Sand Flies outside!  This actually happened to a group of people while I stayed here!















The River next to the lodge
I really hope that I have little boys one day so I can spend all my time with them outdoors!  I'm such a big kid when it comes to being outside!  Who plays with Rocks??? Me!  It was the day I arrived and I had time to kill :) 


 Can you image what it's like after the snow melts.  I'm standing where there would be a rushing river!

 The Lodge from the River.
 Yes, I had a drink of water from the river... it was yummy and I didn't die :) 









 Private Airplanes flying over the river into Milford Sound.
 The airport is less than a mile away from the Lodge.

 Playing with Rocks!!!









Kayaking... Well, you have already read the story about this:


Simply Amazing!!!  7am Kayaking Tour!

 Clouds are pretty low... actually we are pretty high :)
 Stunning!
 Time to come together as a group and make a raft.
 Clouds are starting to burn off.
Are you really trying to give me directions JeanMark?  How about you telling me about your injury prior to playing Captain of the Kayak?  This is clearly the beginning of the Kayak tour.



 Mitre Peak



 1st break of the day.



 They made us wear so much equipment... and the hat is for the waterfalls.
 First attempt at removing memories of JeanMark.
 The Waterfall.






 Water is starting to get a little rough..

 Boats are rocking a little... without anyone paddling...
 Now it's time to head out... I think the tour guide started to get a little freaked out.  I know, they look small until you are in them!






 Pictures are a little out of order.  Anyone notice anything about this picture?



 Baby Seal


Hanging out with a few friends made while in Milford Sound:
 Milford Sound around 9pm.  It doesn't get dark until 9:30/10pm here!




 Bus Terminal and Waterfalls





 Haha... This is how I actually felt!  I know... I looked like a boy for 2 weeks in the South Island!
 Janna and Teresa.  Roomies at the Lodge.  They are super sweet.  Gave me a ride to the trail head the next day.  But I walked back... ugh!



 The One Cafe in Town.
 Peaceful Calm..









Trekking in Milford Sound
Obstacle Course Ahead...  A 6hour hike that turned into an 8hour hike.  I'm still sore!!!



 Clearly the beginning of the hike


 Yeah, this looks nice and maintained a mile into the trail... where's all of this creativeness about marker 49?

 Standing water smells horrible Mate!

 New Zealand Fern!!!









 Now we get into the bush.

 I know that it looks beautiful and green, but it can kill you



 And this is why I fell




 Another stream to cross through
 Really??? is this really part of the obstacle course trail?


 Ha... I really didn't expect a well maintained trail :)

 Close up of the Moss


 ????  Time to climb over/under.
 And there were more obstacle courses

 No way of getting around mud and wet feet, shoes and socks.  Parts of the trail smells like rotting plants.
 Obstacle Course Trail

 And the all fall down!


Welcome to the Jungle!

 Scratching my head when I made it here!
 Some times I made my own path... because I couldn't figure out where to go.  Thank goodness for those orange arrows.


See why I fell down over 5 times...

Yes, this is part of my hike...

 I finally made it to the end of the trail... now turn around and repeat obstacle course trail!





Yes, Yes... what a lovely valley... too bad that I didn't get to enjoy it because of the Sand Flies!

Sand Flies

 These are horrible.  Bug spray does not seem to work and they bite.... and they hurt!!!  Do not visit Milford Sound if you can't handle bug bites becasue these flies are EVERYWHERE!!!
Not a problem... I have no desire to live near sand flies!!!

I will post pictures of Auckland and Melbourne tonight.  Pictures of the Great Barrier Reef will be uploaded once I get the film from the underwater camera developed and put onto a CD.  Pictures posted in the blog are X-Large, so click on them if you want to see the full size picture.

Enjoy!

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